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Article: Beard Papa Cream Puffs

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Beard Papa Cream Puffs

Prep
80 mins
Cook
40 mins
Total
2 hrs
Yield
24-32 puffs
Difficulty
Medium

Pastry Cream

  1. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, and combine the seeds, pod, milk, and cream in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan. Heat over medium until small bubbles appear around the edges. Remove from heat, let infuse a few minutes, then remove the pod.
  2. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until pale yellow. Add the flour and cornstarch and whisk until smooth.
  3. Slowly ladle about 2 ladlefuls of the hot milk into the egg mixture while whisking constantly. Pour the tempered mixture back into the saucepan through a fine-mesh strainer.
  4. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula and scraping the bottom and corners of the pan. The mixture will start thin and frothy and gradually thicken: aim for around 200°F / 93°C. Once large bubbles burst at the surface, cook and stir for 1 more minute. The finished cream should be shiny and fall from the spatula in slow, heavy drops. If clumps form, press them out against the side of the pan with your spatula to reincorporate.
  5. Pour onto a flat tray, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface, and set over an ice bath with an ice pack on top. Cool for at least 30 minutes. Once chilled, whisk until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use, up to 2–3 days.

Diplomat Cream

  1. Whip the heavy cream with the powdered sugar to stiff peaks. Fold in the chilled pastry cream until fully combined. Refrigerate until assembly.

Craquelin

  1. Combine the butter, flour, and brown sugar in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium until a cohesive dough forms.
  2. Place the dough between two sheets of parchment and roll out to 1–2mm thick. Cut out 1½" circles, then slide onto a flat tray and freeze until firm, at least 1 hour.

Choux

  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F / 200°C. Line two baking sheets with parchment. Trace 1½" circles on each sheet with a pen, spacing them about 2" apart, then flip the parchment over. Fit a large piping bag with a large round tip (such as Ateco #805).
  2. Combine the milk, water, butter, salt, and sugar in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium, stirring, until the butter melts and the mixture comes to a boil. Remove from heat and add all the flour at once, stirring vigorously until a smooth, thick paste forms.
  3. Return to medium heat and stir constantly for 2 minutes to dry out the dough, and a thin film will form on the bottom of the pan. Transfer to a stand mixer with the paddle attachment and beat on medium for 1 minute to cool slightly.
  4. Beat the eggs together in a separate bowl. With the mixer on low, slowly stream in most of the egg, then increase to medium and mix for 4 minutes. Test by dipping the beater and lifting. The batter should form a slow V-shape that eventually breaks off. If too stiff, add more egg a little at a time and test again. Most batches need all 6 eggs; using gloved hands to work in the last eggs is fine.
  5. Transfer the batter to the piping bag. Using your traced circles as guides, pipe mounds onto one baking sheet, finishing each with a small wrist flick. Flatten any points with a damp fingertip.
  6. Remove the craquelin from the freezer, peel off the top parchment, and place one circle on top of each choux mound, pressing lightly to adhere. Leave the second tray without craquelin until it's ready to go in the oven.
  7. Bake at 400°F / 200°C for 15 minutes, then reduce to 350°F / 180°C and bake for another 15–20 minutes until deeply golden. Do not open the oven early. Immediately poke a small vent hole in the side of each puff with a paring knife or chopstick. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the second tray, returning the oven to 400°F first.
  8. Transfer the diplomat cream to a piping bag fitted with a small round tip. Insert the tip into the vent hole of each puff and pipe until you feel resistance. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to a few hours.

A few notes

01. Depending on the size of the cream puffs, there may be excess cream or puffs, so try to aim for 1 1/2" diameter rounds. 02. The recipe says 4-6 eggs, but you may need more or less depending on the humidity in the air, how much moisture is in the panade (flour + liquid mixture). When dipping a spatula into the choux, the ideal residue shape should look like a "V". 03. After piping, tamp down peaks with a wet finger.